Designer Olivier Rousteing leaves Balmain after 14 years fusing couture craft with pop-era bravado

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PARIS (AP) — Designer Olivier Rousteing is stepping down as creative director of the Balmain fashion house after 14 hugely visible years in which he fused the rigor of Parisian tailoring with a digital-age sense of celebrity, he announced Wednesday.

“Today marks the end of my Balmain era,” Rousteing,40, wrote on Instagram. “What an extraordinary story it has been — a love story, a life story ... I will always hold this treasured time close to my heart."

Balmain confirmed Rousteing's departure and said in a statement that a new creative direction would be announced “in due course.”

“Throughout his remarkable 14-year tenure, Olivier’s visionary approach and creative brilliance propelled Balmain to unprecedented heights," the label said.

Rousteing, who became creative director in 2011 at age 25 after two years at the label, spent his tenure reviving a once-sleepy fashion house with a mix of couture craft and pop-era bravado.

He transformed Balmain into a headline-generating brand with a vision built on sequins, power shoulders and social media muscle, reframing French luxury for a generation raised on Instagram.

Under Rousteing, Balmain became as much about community as clothing. He cultivated what he called the “Balmain Army" — a loyal circle of models and stars including Rihanna, Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian — which embodied the glamour and visibility he championed.

Runway shows became pop events, blurring the line between fashion show and stadium concert. The designer’s inclusive casting and celebration of diversity helped redefine the image of a Paris house often associated with old-world exclusivity.

Born in Bordeaux and adopted as an infant, Rousteing later learned that his biological parents were of Somali and Ethiopian origin — a revelation that he said deepened his sense of identity and creative mission. His collections often wove references to heritage, resilience and belonging, offering a modern counterpoint to the Eurocentric codes that once dominated French couture.

That personal resilience was tested again in 2020, when a fireplace explosion in his Paris home left him with severe burns across much of his body. Rousteing kept the accident private for nearly a year, designing in bandages while concealing his injuries from the public eye. When he revealed the ordeal on Instagram, posting an image of his scarred torso, the gesture was both raw and defiant — a reminder that vulnerability could coexist with glamour.

The designer’s candor about his trauma and recovery further humanized a figure once seen as fashion’s ultimate showman. In interviews, Rousteing said the experience stripped away fear and reinforced his belief in honesty and transparency. His subsequent collections — notably the Spring 2022 show marking Balmain’s 10th anniversary under his direction — were suffused with themes of healing, strength and rebirth, with corseted silhouettes and bandage motifs doubling as symbols of survival.

“Like every story, this one also has an ending,” Rousteing wrote on Instagram Wednesday. He thanked his team and colleagues, but did not say what his next step will be.

“Today, I leave the House of Balmain with my eyes still wide open — open to the future and to the beautiful adventures ahead, adventures in which all of you will have a place. A new era, a new beginning, a new story. THANK YOU.”

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Associated Press writer Jocelyn Noveck contributed to this report from New York.